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published: Monday 25 March 2019
modified: Monday 25 March 2019
author: Hales
markup: textile

Repair: Allied Telesis AT-8000GS 24port gigabit switches

I recently bought a pair of used AT-800GS switches off eBay:

The units were slated as fully working, but unfortunately I found the fans in both had seized:

Crispy! It looks like the lubricant turned reactive (acidic?). All of the laminated steelwork and bearings had been eaten, so it wasn’t a worthwhile option to try and refurbish these fans. I’ve been known to strip fans and relubricate them to get some extra life (especially when they turn noisy), but we’re looking at a situation that’s far from that simple.

The units appeared to function without these fans, but I had no trust in their longevity. Sitting on my airy bench with no load is one thing, sitting in a stack switching gigabits of traffic is another.

Fan hunt

The eBay seller was kind enough to send me a couple of replacement fans, but they were in almost similar condition, so I started hunting some alternatives.

A friend informed me that this model of CeraDyna cooler was used on a lot of VGA cards back in the day and was renowned for early failure. Luckily the footprint of the fans and heatsink is a common size: 40mm fan with 60mm peg spacing.

eBay has lots of really cheap fan+heatsink combos in this size (keywords: “vga cooler”) going for a few dollars:

I found that this is the cheapest way to get the heatsinks — buying them separately actually costs more.

The seller chucked the fans in a plastic shipping bag with no padding. One of them arrived broken:

These fans are of very dubious quality to begin with. Never trust unbranded sleeve bearing fans being sold for less than $2, that’s like trusting “free” ATX supplies that come in cases. I need to make up some “Gigglepower” stickers.

The heatsinks themselves come with annoyingly placed labels and don’t have the golden anodisation milled off the thermal contact surface:

These heatsinks are much larger and beefier than what they’re replacing, and they’re cheap, so I’m not complaining.

For replacement fans I ordered some 40mm units from the well known brands of Sunon and Delta. The sunon is particularly interesting motor-wise: it only seems to have a single coil:

I’m not sure how that works. Multiple taps? That bent sheet steel on top looks specially shaped.

Getting to the heatsink pegs for removal required completely disassembling the switches and taking the motherboards out. They are an inconvenient fit in this model and require bending the case slightly.

Removing the heatsinks themselves required a notable amount brute force. The old thermal paste appeared to be (or have become) a hard adhesive. It took lots of physical abrasion with alcohol to remove the yellow plague and I lost the main MCU markings (black writing) in this process:

Pasting and installing the new heatsinks was relatively simple. Don’t stare too closely at the mismatched pegs, I might have lost one under the lounge:

Plugging the new fans into the motherboard wasn’t straightforward. Most computer fans come with 2.54mm (0.1”) fan headers. The headers on this motherboard are 1.25mm pitch and appear to be Molex Picoblade, something that’s hard for me to cheaply and easily get small quantities of crimps and casings for.

I instead opted to butcher the original (dead) fan cables and make some adaptions. On the left are some soldered and heatshrunk splices, with black tape acting as a thick anchor point for the clear heatshrink. This was visually satisfying, but means that if I have to replace the fan again I’ll have to cut all the connections. On the right is an unmodified fan using a small picoblade<->2.54mm adapter cable, something I think is a better idea in the long term.

Caution to future cable tanglers: the 3 fan wires are no in standard order on these boards, make sure to re-arrange them appropriately before plugging a standard PC fan in.

Everything now works and the sound levels are manageable. The replacement heatsinks+fans are much taller than the originals, but they still have a workable airgap above them in the 1RU cases. I’m quite happy now and I’ll have to see how things go.

Console cable

These units use RJ45 (ethernet cable) for their console. I didn’t get any cables with the units and authentic ones are going for >$100 on eBay. I couldn’t find any mentions of the pinout on any documentation for the switches and the various Allied Telesis pinouts I found on the web were all conflicting.

In the end I put a few bits of information together to reverse engineer the pinout myself:

A bit of gruntwork later and I had fully working console access:

Gladly these units had the default passwords set, so I didn’t have to delve into a deeper world of repair.

For now however they sit in hibernation, until I have some more time to fix my lab again:

Christophe - Tuesday 24 September 2019


Many thanks for your job
Is it possible to give the pinout number for DB9 please
I need to manage ma 8000GS and i'm not sure to understand what you do


Hales - (site author) - Tuesday 24 September 2019

Hey Christophe,

Only the middle 4 pins are needed. This means you can cut and use an RJ45 ethernet cable (8P8C) or a phone cable (6P4C, 4P4C or similar), almost any should fit and work.

On an RJ45 this means pins 3,4,5,6 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Rj45plug-8p8c.png

The two middle pins (4,5) are ground. The pins either side (3,6) are RX and TX. I'm not sure which way around RX and TX are, but most often you can try both combinations until one works.

Overall you are going to want to get:

* A short ethernet cable (to cut up)
* A short RS-232 DB9 cable (to cut up)
* Some scissors
* Sticky-tape
* A multimeter with continuity (buzz) mode, so you can check which wire goes to which pin.
* (optional, if your computer doesn't have a DB9 port): a USB to DB9 RS232 converter. Typically ~$5

Make sure you are using a proper RS-232 port on your computer or a proper RS-232 to USB converter (the "proper" ones have an actual DB-9 port on them, not just bent pins). Small serial to USB converters typically only provides 3.3V signalling, but RS-232 is something like -7V to +12V. Using the wrong one will lead to things not working and/or your little converter going bang.

RS-232 provides lots of pins, you only need to wire the 3/4 I mention above.

If you are not familiar with baud rates and serial monitor software: I suggest doing a little reading on the web. It's simple once you know what's going on.

Hope that helps :)

Regards, Hales

Paul - Friday 7 August 2020

I have seen that you made a repair on AT switches. Can you help me please?
I have seen that your switches had the rj45 console port. Mine have the serial port.
The model that I have is AT-8000S. Can you please help me out with a pinout to build my console cable?
I would really appreciate a email from you.

Best regards,

Hales - (site author) - website - Friday 7 August 2020

Hello Paul,

I've moved your comment to the right page. Please keep your comments about AT switches here, otherwise we will end up with lots of little comments spread across the site in different places.

To make your console cable: scroll up to my previous comment on this page, it has my recommended method. Your unit may not be identical to mine, however, it is likely it still only requires the same 3 wires of RS-232 communications (GND, RX, TX). There are lots of guides on the web for familiarising yourself with UARTs if you are not already.

[Apologies, not going to email you back. Your domain is full of the keywords "website optimisation" and "SEO", which (to say the least) scares me and makes me uncertain if you are actually after help with the cable or not. I get a lot of people cold-emailing me about their SEO services all of the time. Give making your cable a try and feel free to reply here again if you encounter problems doing that.]

Regards, Hales

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